The fashion industry depends on a certain level of pretentiousness. But does it have to be that way, or is there an alternative? With my do-it-yourself ethos, I poke fun at the pretentiousness in the fashion industry and look for an alternative.
I am Berber Struiksma (24), and graduating from the HKU Fashion Design program this year. I work as a designer and autonomous maker. I deal with sustainability; within that theme, I am concerned with how materials can be used repeatedly.
I deconstruct second-hand materials and give them a new function. I apply this collage-like working method also to my already-made work. The work I make can always be used differently and also be reused again to create new work. In this way, the artwork keeps moving and growing.
In five years, I would like to have my own brand that focuses on sustainability and new ways of fashion. I also hope to continue working as an autonomous maker and further my research on the autonomy of fashion.
Learned during the studies
To think outside the conventional boundaries of fashion. Fashion is everything that relates to the body and doesn't necessarily have to be a wearable garment. And that there are multiple ways of designing, not just through sketches or by using Infinite amounts of fabric, but also by using second-hand materials. It's not about seeing it as a limitation but rather embracing a different way of being creative.
List of publications / exhibitions / prices / concerts / shows etc.
One of the first art projects I participated in was called "De kunstmachine", which I took part in twice in 2018. As a visitor, you could put a small object into one side of the machine, the artist inside the machine would transform it into something new, which would then come out on the other side as an artwork. The first exhibition I participated in was during the "Broeikas" in 2019, an art festival. There, I presented work that I had made during my time at the academy, called "Huiswerk". In 2021, I exhibited my work "Acht vingers in de koestront" at Kunstliefde in Utrecht as the finalisation of the "What is Fashion" minor. That year I also participated in a program for young makers, who were supported in making work for an exhibition, this work was exhibited in 2022 in the Westerkerk in Leeuwarden. In 2023, I participated in a week-long residency at Project Spacelokaal in Utrecht with Rosa Damen and Jentl Rietdijk. At the end of the week, we presented the work we had created during the residency.